REI Community
Vector Madness Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Boy Cooper T 
Doubling the Cube S 
Halcyon T 
Hop Rising Point T 
Lack of Principle S 
Pi in the Sky T 
Straddle the Pony T 
Tangent T 
TVC S 
Vector Madness S 
Vertical Component T 
Zach's Theorem S 

Lack of Principle 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: KW, JS, Aug. 2014
Page Views: 177
Submitted By: John Steiger on Sep 12, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Mid-way up LOP. The overhanging crack left and sl...

Description 

This is a long bolted line right of Vector and Tangent, starting up an easy bolted face then eventually climbing over steep bulges left of the largest roofs on the crag. There is a section of out-of-character scrambling, and a wee bit of contrivance, but the direct line and air below your feet as you crank the bulges warrant three stars IMO. The first bolt is maybe 40 feet up, but 5.0 climbing to get to it.

Location 

About 30 feet right and downhill from the start to Vector Madness. Rap or lower from chains (70 meter rope).

Protection 

One can get by with 7 draws, maybe a few on the long side, and a biner or two for the chains. If real nervous, one or two hand-size cams should help (use for the section before the steep bulges).


Photos of Lack of Principle Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Zach clearing the last bulge on Lack of Principle.
BETA PHOTO: Zach clearing the last bulge on Lack of Principle.

Comments on Lack of Principle Add Comment
Show which comments
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
2 days ago

Finally got around to finishing this after bailing by traversing to Vector Madness anchors in fading light last year. I also wasn't sure a 60m rope would get us off, but you can rap from the low anchors to the easy rock at the start of the route with one. This is a worthy route with fun climbing through the roof where finding the best holds is challenging. I was glad to have a 1, .5, and .75 camalot to supplement the 9 bolts.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About