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YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
Page Views: 5,696
Submitted By: V.X. on Jul 5, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Coming up the squeeze

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  • Description 

    Walk right and up of Finger Licker on a faint trail. You'll see The Hook (a left hooking OW), then two other slots. The right is Minotaur 5.8, the left is the Labyrinth. Climb up a 60' somewhat dirty slab/ramp towards the two chimneys. Pull over the block to get into the chimney. Climb the tight squeeze chimney by tunneling in about 40' to the back where a jam crack is found. Climb up 40' via the splitter in the back of the chimney to where you can tunnel even deeper into the wall to a small cave. From there chimney up the huge slot which takes smaller pro in a crack. This puts you on top of the Black September and Rated X. A fun climb for a really hot day, a great spot to chill. A must do even if the grade doesn't speak to you.


    A few cams to 3".

    Photos of Labyrinth Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out and looking back down.
    Topping out and looking back down.
    Rock Climbing Photo: In the squeeze
    In the squeeze

    Comments on Labyrinth Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By AndrewB
    From: Davis, CA
    Sep 23, 2013
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

    I gave this a 5.7 R based on how we climbed the squeeze chimney on P2. The lowest section of the squeeze was too tight for us to traverse low, so we climbed 20 ft up on the outside edge of the squeeze to reach a wider section. Then we traversed the 40ft of squeeze to a stuck block, then up the 5 ft into the cavern. No pro that entire section up and through the squeeze, just made sure to keep myself partially stuck most of the time! We had 7 people in the cave at once, with plenty of room all over! We downclimbed to the rated X bolts, which rap to the bottom with a 70m.
    By Logan Swartz
    From: Davis, CA
    Sep 7, 2014
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    Awesome!! A must do adventure!! Doesn't look like it but you can squeeze in down low. Definitely choose your own adventure!! Different chimneys through different passage ways.
    Some sunglass in the crack at the back of the squeeze chimney. Need to bring something rigid like tent poles to snag them.
    By TomC
    Jun 23, 2015
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    Great climb! Definitely not 40' back or up, more like 20'-30'. Easy to do a single pitch to the ledge/cave at the top of the squeeze.
    By Zac Smith
    From: Sacramento, CA
    Jun 27, 2016

    Probably a couple of different ways to run this one. We soloed up the easy 5.3 broken gully to the right of the diagonal crack and set up a somewhat awkward belay near the base of the squeeze chimney. Went through the first squeeze chimney and set up a belay in the large cave. For p2 we went up through the large vertical shaft at the far end of the cave. Probably only placed about 6-7 pieces total for both pitches. Super fun, definitely some adventure climbing.
    By Mitch Alexander
    From: SLO, CA
    Aug 12, 2016
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    Hilariously fun climb. Normally I avoid squeeze chimneys like the plague but this one was easy to protect with a hand crack in the first pitch and a finger crack in the second pitch. Do it!
    By Sam Carter
    Jun 30, 2017

    I'm a pretty thin person and I actually could not psychically get deeper than 5 feet in the squeeze, my partner couldn't even get into it. It's a shame because the route looks fricken amazing.
    By tagshell
    Aug 11, 2017

    My partner and I had the same experience as Sam when we tried this last year. Neither of us could get into the squeeze and my partner is skinny! We bailed on a cordalette around the block below the slot. Either we were off route, or we don't know how to get into squeeze chimneys (also likely as we're both new climbers).
    By Mike Horan
    Sep 5, 2017
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    I'm 5'11" and 160lbs and couldn't fit in at the bottom of the squeeze. But it gets wider as it goes up, so after climbing up 5 feet I was able to get into it. Then after about 10 feet of going in, it gets wider everywhere so was able to drop down to the ground and walk to the rest of the way to the back.

    If it's too hot to climb at black wall, this is a great way to cool off.

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