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|Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.|
Peregrine closures and approach trail issues MORE INFO >>>
A superb pitch. Le Spirale climbs a striking blunt arete before changing character abruptly in the last 15' or so, where one encounters a brief section of thuggish (i.e, very fun!) wide fist to hands. It is this combination of delicate face and steep crack that makes the pitch so great!
P1: Climb the arete and faces on either side, past 2 crux thin sections, before joining the Thunderhead crack system for a memorable finish. While the hard moves are well protected, some spicy climbing will be encountered on easier ground. There is 5.8ish climbing where a fall would be problematic.
Start at the obvious black arete just left of the Thunderhead corner, and about 50' around the corner to the right from Green Onion.
Bolts and perhaps a handful of thin finger-sized cams and nuts. A #3 and a #4 Camalot will be welcome for the final few feet of steep crack climbing on Thunderhead.
By Mark Bealor Saranac Lake NY
May 29, 2016
Good description. One of the best 11- pitches at Poke-O, on a par w/ P2 Casual Observer in terms of quality.
Well named-get the timing right and you'll be weaving back and forth from sun to shade.
Well protected for the hard bits, I remember being happy to place a #3 tcu about 2/3 of the way up on the left side.