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Greg takes a well-deserved rest midway through the...
La Selva seems to have a reputation for vegetation. It is not as bad as it sounded to me as climbed in 2012 & 2015, the latter of which was a high rain year.
For route description, see Mick Schein's "Sandia Rock" (2003). Some comments are below. All references are to Schein's guide.
P1: See this Photo
and the comment below it for a couple ways to do the first pitch.
P2: After heading up the bushy gully roughly 80 feet, there seems to be a choice of a) continuing ~straight up an undulating wide-ish crack in a sort of right facing dihedral or b) traversing a bit left and then up around a bush in a more direct line to the ledge (which is still out of sight). We went left and up and it worked well: no real rope drag and the pro is there for the exit moves. The belay ledge is at about 100 feet, where it is indeed difficult to locate a good anchor.
Courtesy of kevinnlong
: "Regarding the end of P2. We went right up the minor right facing dihedral, which was nice. The top of this arrives at a spot that is about 10-15 feet above the P2 belay ledge. At this location, there is a huge boulder to sling, so the anchor is simple.
P3: Might be best to break this pitch in two because: 1) it's an inconvenient rope-stretcher with a 60m to reach the tree on the big ledge (couldn't extend back to the lip of the ledge) and 2) the harder moves are near the end of the pitch not far above big blocks when lots of stretchy rope is in play.
The intermediate belay could be mid-way up at the start of a clean hand-sized crack below the blocks or just above the blocks at the base of a wider crack (#3 BD C4 fits low before the crack widens further).
P4: One climbing pair in our group, with a strong leader, skipped the move of the belay to the tree and had no problem with rope drag. The other pair started from the tree.
P5: For those a little out of shape: try to save some steam for this one - still a few ~strenuous moves await.
Last 200 feet of 4th class: there is also some pretty good exposure in spots. One pair in our party climbed unroped while the other pitched it out.
This has the same starting pitch as Warpy Moople
. The first three pitches are easily viewed from the "Front Porch" at the base of Muralla Grande: find the start of the route; then hike back down about 50 yards and out onto the top of the "Front Porch" formation.
No bolts on this route. A half dozen or so pieces 1/2 inch and smaller for the crux pitch (TCUs are nice); otherwise, we had a standard Sandia Rack up to the size of a #4 BD C4. Some may want a second of that biggest piece for near the end of P3 ... or plan to walk that big bad boy up some.
A couple pitches are about 3/4 rope length so some extra slings are useful. Two or three long slings will help with rope drag on one or two of the pitches.
BETA PHOTO: Unmarked version of route photo.
Greg G. in the midst of the crux.
BETA PHOTO: The first 2/3 of the route. Zoom in on the accomp...
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 17, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Regarding the end of P2. We went right up the minor right facing dihedral, which was nice. The top of this arrives at a spot that is about 10-15 feet above the P2 belay ledge. At this location, there is a huge boulder to sling, so the anchor is simple.
I thought the crux pitch was very straightforward and protected very well (with small gear at times). To me, it was easier and less strenuous that the 4" wide crack on P3. My partner felt the opposite.
From: New Mexico
Aug 17, 2016
I would add some recommendations for Pitch 3:
1. Bring 2x #4s for the crack. It takes #3s down low, but I wished I had a second #4 on top.
2. Since it is recommended to move the belay for P4 from the alcove to the tree, one can build a belay in the big crack, on the blocks just before the big crack. There is a lot of rope out at this point and a fall on that crack section can result in hitting the blocks below.
3. The crack in is listed as 5.7 on P3 in the book. It felt more like a 5.8.
Don't make the same mistake as I did. I fell and hit the blocks!