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La Reina 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: John Long and John Wolfe, March 1974
Page Views: 2,855
Submitted By: M. Morley on Jan 2, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Karin Wadsack follows the short but sweet "La...


High above the sea of topropes lies a beautiful right-facing corner. This is La Reina ("The Queen"), a short, sustained, and somewhat awkward handcrack with nice edges for the right hand and foot. Scramble up the 4th/low 5th class gully right of Swishbah to the base. This excellent route should not be missed!

A slung horn may be used for the belay.

To descend, scramble off to the west and back around to the base.


Light rack to 1".

Photos of La Reina Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hobbs getting started on La Reina
Hobbs getting started on La Reina
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris "Zero Star" Miller on La Reina
BETA PHOTO: Chris "Zero Star" Miller on La Reina
Rock Climbing Photo: Shana jamming up La Reina.  Photo: Mike Morley
Shana jamming up La Reina. Photo: Mike Morley

Comments on La Reina Add Comment
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By Josh Beck
Jan 4, 2003

This is a fun, if a bit short lead. A good test for those breaking into 5.9 leading - it's a little steep and pumpy but features solid jams. You'll probably want gear to 2-2.5" though, as I recall it being sustained hands and tight hands, though it's been a while since I've done it.

By M. Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 4, 2003

You can also get by nicely using just TCUs and small cams up to about a .75 BD, as the crack narrows toward the back.
By Josh Beck
Jan 5, 2003

My bad memory I guess ;) Fun route nonetheless. I consider it an "overlooked" route for sure...
By The Gray Tradster
Jan 14, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Good short steep jaming exercise. Most of the flakes are creakers so place pro accordingly.
By Isaac T.
From: Yokosuka, Japan
Dec 26, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

It is about to get alot harder when i climbed it i felt two key hand holds move quite a bit.
By Darren D.
Mar 25, 2007

Careful with some of those flakes...a few are a bit flexy. Small gear works well. A bit short, or you could continue uprun-out un-protected chossy 5.4 jugs. If that's your sort of thing.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 7, 2010

Soloed this onsight, and the flakes up high are distressingly thin and creaky, definitely not recommended for your solo circuit. You can stay off the flakes altogether, but it makes the route a bit harder, perhaps 10b.
By Tradiban
Dec 22, 2012

Awkward, skip this unless you just must. Belay is weird too, careful not to let the rope suck the cams into the crack if the follower falls. I put a cam in low and then saddled the hump with the rope going down groove to keep it out of the crack.
By Tommy G.
From: Killeen, Texas
Feb 18, 2013

The start got my attention, but it seemed to ease from there. The flakes were a bit suspect, but not super scary or anything. I can understand them being more disconcerting on a solo. I just tossed my rope at the top of the crack and ran the belay strand over that to avoid it getting sucked down. Worthwhile tick.

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