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La Piton 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
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Page Views: 208
Submitted By: yevquest on Jul 2, 2010

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Description 

Starting in the back of the Pince Cave, La Piton climbs out the huge roof capping the sector. Start by climbing tufas with a face hold thrown in here and there for a few bolts and a good kneebar/stem rest. The wall steepens a little here so move quickly through the next 2 bolts to some huge horn jugs. A boulder problem that ends with a left hand throw deposits you into the hole that's obvious from the ground. Kneebars allow recovery, much needed as the route now heads out the near horizontal roof. After resting, an odd traverse right starts the roof climbing. The first two bolts are huge jugs with good feet, clip the anchor here for 7c credit or keep moving out the roof. From the 2nd roof bolt, a long move and then a campus match (other beta?) lead to a manufactured gaston pocket and a huge jump move to a large block. The route ends at another huge move to the lip.

Location 

In the center of the cave, to the right of the shorter warmup routes. The hueco where the route steepens and the draws out the roof provide convenient landmarks.

Protection 

Bolts


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