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El Sombrero
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La Piñata T 
North Dihedral (aka Just Another BBQ) T 

La Piñata 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a A1+

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 300', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a A1+ [details]
FA: James Garrett and Franziska Garrett, 9 November 1997
New Route: Yes
Season: When dry
Page Views: 354
Submitted By: James Garrett on Jul 21, 2008

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Description 

A real tower experience in a remote setting.

Pitch #1: Climb 5.8 low angled section past a bolt to the right facing bulging dihedral. Follow this to a huge ledge and two-bolt belay. 5.10, A0, 50m.

Pitch #2: Leave the huge ledge for the summit starting up low angle slab (5.9) protected by one bolt. The angle steepens with A1 moves passing several bolts and holes and fixed protection is necessary to climb higher. Pass a fixed Nut, a ledge, and some 5.7 climbing to the tower top and two bolt belay. 5.9, A1, 55m.

Location 

The approach can be somewhat complex, so study the north side cliff bands well before fording the river and charging toward El Sombrero. La Piñata ascends the SE corner of the conical tower. Make your way around to this side from the north side by skirting the north side and scrambling toward a large right facing bulging corner.
Rappel the route. A rope was once stuck here while descending from Just Another BBQ. May require long slings to extend the anchor.

Protection 

Set of Camalots, QDs, slings, Hooks, RBs, keyhole hangers, tie-offs and a few assorted pitons and hammer to re-fix several aready fixed pitons.


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