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La Parkita 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: William Penner
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 501
Submitted By: William Penner on May 2, 2014

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Steep jugs, crimps and slopers lead to an okay rest followed by a challenging and dynamic exit sequence with some awful holds. Shorter but just amazing.


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6 QDs

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By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Apr 5, 2015

A really useful hold broke at the crux, might be harder now.
By christicknor
Apr 6, 2015

It was the hold used to get into the crux, left hand pinch/crimp just below last bolt. It will be harder and more punishing on your hands.
By William Penner
From: The 505
Apr 6, 2015

The left hand sloper pinch/side pull broke that you use to dyno off for the crux? That hold barely existed to begin with! If it is a lower hold then it shouldn't have changed the difficulty too much.

By Shirtless Mike
From: Denver, CO
Apr 6, 2015

Warning: Onsight Spoiler

When did it break? I tried this on Saturday, and it didn't seem like there was anything to break off the left hand pinch / sidepull. My beta from the left hand jug was, rt gaston crimp, left three finger small crimp, rt intermediate bad crimp, rt sidepull pinch, left sidepull / pinch, dyno right hand for the jug.
By William Penner
From: The 505
Apr 6, 2015

Holy crap Mike, now nobody can try to on sight this after that beta bomb ;) I do pretty much the same sequence, but minus one of the intermediates you described. A drop knee with the right foot on that mini dihedral allowed me to sort of keep the feet on and do more of desperate deadpoint than an all points off dyno.

Yeah, that is why I was surprised by the earlier comment...there is nothing left to break on that left hand. Maybe they broke one of the lower crimps or something. Super cool dyno crux though!
By christicknor
Apr 6, 2015

That is the beta I was using too on sunday (but no dyno, just go left to top off right side pull). Now the left three finger small crimp is smaller.
By William Penner
From: The 505
Apr 7, 2015

Whatever the beta or condition of the hold leading into the crux, I am glad to see some folks getting on the route. It packs a punch for being so short, although it would be even more brutal if that jug rest wasn't there before the crux.

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