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La Paloma 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Adrian Benitez & Carlos Carsolio
Page Views: 103
Submitted By: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra on Aug 1, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Ruben Perez Ramirez climbing La Paloma. Photo by ...

Description 

A classic line, airy and slightly tricky to protect.

Start at the base of the finger crack that splits the almost vertical face, just left of a big pillar that forms a chimney about 1/3 up the way. Climb up the chimney while placing gear along the crack on the face, when the chimney ends, stand at its top (1st crux) and step back onto the face and continue up the crack passing a small roof (2nd crux) and another short bulge. Follow up a groove/gully till you reach the anchor.

Location 

This route is located on the cliff's second tier, about 30 feet above the 1st-pitch anchor of Las Gamuzas. A short 4th Class scramble on ledges will get you there. Find a finger crack that splits an almost vertical face with a small roof at its top.

Bring an extra rope to rappel the route (a doubled 70m rope won't reach the starting ledge) or find the 2nd-pitch anchor of Las Gamuzas (about four meters down and left, on the back side) and get down from there if you only have one rope (you'd still have to scramble down about 5m if you have a 60m rope).

Protection 

Standard rack up to #3 Camalot (doubles on the finger sizes), nuts and a few long runners.


Photos of La Paloma Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Armando Dattoli below the 2nd crux of La Paloma.  ...
Armando Dattoli below the 2nd crux of La Paloma. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra on the 2nd crux of La Palo...
Mauricio Herrera Cuadra on the 2nd crux of La Palo...

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