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La Naris 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Rick Bradshaw, Josh Smith and Rick Smith
Page Views: 50
Submitted By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Nov 2, 2008

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La Naris is an extension/second pitch to Mocos Locos. Climb Mocos Locos and work your way up to the base of La Naris. Pull very steep moves off the block and right of the arete, then steep juggy climbing around to the left side of the arete. Once on the left side of the arete climb straight up the arete, right hand on it (out left on the face looks tempting but seemed to dead end). As the angle lessens make moves out left then back to the arete and around it onto the right side and up a shallow corner to the anchor.


About 60' up and left of the finish of Mocos Locos. Starts atop a fairly large block with no anchor at the bottom. The prominent arete above the low point of Early Wall.


Bolts and hook anchors

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By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
From: ABQ, NM
Nov 9, 2008

We did this as one looong pitch linking Mocos Locos into it...Stupid, rope drag was heinous, though there is not an anchor at the base of the route to use. Then to rap we were just able to make it back down to the Mocos Locos anchor with a 70m rope then onto the ground. I guess there is an anchor somewhere below the start of the route but we never saw it, if someone has better info on what to do to make the approach safe ie: an anchor location somewhere and the location of the rap anchor, adding that would be great.
By Rick Bradshaw
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 10, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The route is actually named La Naris, established by Rick Bradshaw, Rick Smith and Josh Smith. The connection from Locos Mocos is...not perfect, but not terribly unreasonable either (I keep meaning to make it better) but La Naris is worth a bit of effort. One can belay from the Mocos anchors going either right up a crack (where there is an intermediate sling belay) or left (more tenuous) through some bushes traversing left and up to the base of La Naris. There is a large ledge at the base of La Naris making a dual anchor belay unnecessary (and may falsely indicate that one could rap from there), so just use the first bolt of La Naris to keep the belayer and leader safe. To exit, lower the leader (from the top anchors) straight down below the belay about 30 feet. The anchors with chains are easy to find. Once the leader is secure at the lower anchor the belayer can lower himself to the same spot. From there it is slightly more than 30m to the ground, which makes a 60m rope fine with a bit of rope stretch. See the picture on the web for locations:

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