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La Cucaracha  

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 362
Submitted By: geoff georges on Sep 3, 2014

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Description 

This gets 1 star in Kramar's book, I think he prefers slabs. This is a great and fun little climb. Seems soft for the Leavenworth grade of 10d. Maybe 10c or 10b. The book also says gear to 1". the first piece is a #3, and you could place a #2 or #3 up higher on the right side of flake.

Location 

follow trail towards waterfall, veer left from waterfall, pass a short double finger crack with big flat area, continue uphill, this is on the left, bolted 5.12 to right, Madsen's chimney ( actually an OW) further right.

Protection 

mostly medium size cams .4- #3. Good cord on tree( 8/2014) could walk off to SW.


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By Eric8
From: Maynard, MA
Feb 25, 2015
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Agreed pretty good route. The only thing I remember thinking was can I use both cracks and if so its not 10d...
By Jplotz
From: Wenatchee, WA
Sep 18, 2015

A fun, if short, exercise in rattly finger jamming.
By tanner jones
May 1, 2017

cord on tree held my rap 4/30/17. i'll try to remember to bring some fresh cord up there next time as it was looking kinda spooky.
By Matthew Tangeman
Jun 27, 2017

Probably more of a meat grinder than Meat Grinder...

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