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E. Black&White - Club Sandwich
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La Bi-Centenaire 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: FA (1973) & FFA (1979)
Page Views: 157
Submitted By: Jerome St-Michel on Aug 18, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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BETA PHOTO: Topo

This cliffs is insured by the FQME MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An overhanging hand/fist crack that is mostly the finest trad climb at Weir. To access it, you either have to climb 3D (5.12a) or P1 (5.9) of Black & White (5.10+). If you decide to climb P1 of Black & White, you have to re-establish yourself on a ledge above and left of the anchor. In both cases, I recommend to build a gear belay on the ledge and not using the anchor of 3D, which is kind of too high/uncomfortable.

Pitch 1: Traverse left and head for the bolt, then clip it. You can also clip a fixed anchor above your head and/or just keep traversing and breaking through the roof (crux). Fight the pump and keep climbing the crack until it ease, right after a wide section. At that point, you can split this pitch by using the anchor that is on your right, or keep climbing and passing through a left facing corner (dirty) to another fixed anchor on La Voie du Centenaire's Ledge. (5.11+)

Pitch 2: I didn't climb that pitch and it looks dirty. From the anchor you have to go right and climb some overhanging dihedral. (5.8)

Location 

This climb is located in Black & White's area. You either have to climb 3D (5.12a) or the first pitch of Black & White to access it. Refer to the description above for details.

Protection 

to Camalot #3. Doubles of hand size pieces are useful.


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