Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Gray Alexander, Greg Corliss, Marlow Finne 1988 |
Page Views: | 1,542 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | john durr on Aug 15, 2014 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
A cool line up the beautiful buttress between Roseanne and Lucky Streaks. Golden knobs, mixed climbing, run-outs, route finding finishing on Roseanne's awesome final roof.
P1: Start up the Roseanne dihedral about 50 feet, cut left on big knobs to a bolt, run-out 5.8 straight up to another bolt and a bolted belay. (5.8PG 160 feet)
P2: Hard moves straight up off the belay to first bolt, climb a long ways up drifting slightly right to bolt 2, bolt 3 is straight above, head up on beautiful golden knobs and some edges drifting a hair left, about 35 feet out of sustained 5.9 climbing reach a white dike and look left along the dike to spot a great and welcome jug. Figure out how to reach the jug and stand on it (5.10a/b R). Bolt 4 is another 10 feet above this. Head up and left to bolt 5 around golden polish, real near the big right facing corner. Bolt 6 is up and right about 15 feet with some cool moves and the technical crux. Straight up to hit the top of the corner and a good fixed pin. Up to a rusted 1/4" spinner and right to the bolted belay. (5.10b 165 feet)
P3: Straight up knobs to a bolt, cut left to a giant knob cluster (5.10b) and up a nice right facing low angle crack with finger to hand size pro. Follow this up and right (5.7) until it ends and work up and right past a series of super cool bottoming cracks some that take pro (5.8) to the last bolt of the 5.11b bolt line to the right (this loose and contrived route actually). Continue straight up to the large and aesthetic belay ledge - gear belay 1/2" - 2" cams. (5.9 165 feet)
P4: From the right (south) end of the ledge work up and right on nice knobs, head up to an obvious large knob that could be slung up to a rusty 1/4" bolt (5.8R). Make a delicate traverse right (5.9 scary for follower) and finish on the roof pitch of Roseanne. Gear belay above.
Cruz low angle 3rd or 4th class to the down climb.
P1: Start up the Roseanne dihedral about 50 feet, cut left on big knobs to a bolt, run-out 5.8 straight up to another bolt and a bolted belay. (5.8PG 160 feet)
P2: Hard moves straight up off the belay to first bolt, climb a long ways up drifting slightly right to bolt 2, bolt 3 is straight above, head up on beautiful golden knobs and some edges drifting a hair left, about 35 feet out of sustained 5.9 climbing reach a white dike and look left along the dike to spot a great and welcome jug. Figure out how to reach the jug and stand on it (5.10a/b R). Bolt 4 is another 10 feet above this. Head up and left to bolt 5 around golden polish, real near the big right facing corner. Bolt 6 is up and right about 15 feet with some cool moves and the technical crux. Straight up to hit the top of the corner and a good fixed pin. Up to a rusted 1/4" spinner and right to the bolted belay. (5.10b 165 feet)
P3: Straight up knobs to a bolt, cut left to a giant knob cluster (5.10b) and up a nice right facing low angle crack with finger to hand size pro. Follow this up and right (5.7) until it ends and work up and right past a series of super cool bottoming cracks some that take pro (5.8) to the last bolt of the 5.11b bolt line to the right (this loose and contrived route actually). Continue straight up to the large and aesthetic belay ledge - gear belay 1/2" - 2" cams. (5.9 165 feet)
P4: From the right (south) end of the ledge work up and right on nice knobs, head up to an obvious large knob that could be slung up to a rusty 1/4" bolt (5.8R). Make a delicate traverse right (5.9 scary for follower) and finish on the roof pitch of Roseanne. Gear belay above.
Cruz low angle 3rd or 4th class to the down climb.
Location
Starts up the Roseanne dihedral just right of Lucky Streaks, high up on the west face of Fairview Dome.
Bolts on this route are really hard to spot and while they are pretty good, they are not modern. Pitch 1 belay bolts are two old, rusted 1/4" with a good 3/8" bolt a couple feet up and right to protect the belay. Pitch 1 and 2 anchors are not set up for bailing off. After completing pitch 3 you have to leave gear if you need to bail.
Bolts on this route are really hard to spot and while they are pretty good, they are not modern. Pitch 1 belay bolts are two old, rusted 1/4" with a good 3/8" bolt a couple feet up and right to protect the belay. Pitch 1 and 2 anchors are not set up for bailing off. After completing pitch 3 you have to leave gear if you need to bail.
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