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La Bella Luna 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 600'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Gray Alexander, Greg Corliss, Marlow Finne 1988
Season: sunny in the afternoon
Page Views: 469
Submitted By: john durr on Aug 15, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

A cool line up the beautiful buttress between Roseanne and Lucky Streaks. Golden knobs, mixed climbing, run-outs, route finding finishing on Roseanne's awesome final roof.

P1: Start up the Roseanne dihedral about 50 feet, cut left on big knobs to a bolt, run-out 5.8 straight up to another bolt and a bolted belay. (5.8PG 160 feet)

P2: Hard moves straight up off the belay to first bolt, climb a long ways up drifting slightly right to bolt 2, bolt 3 is straight above, head up on beautiful golden knobs and some edges drifting a hair left, about 35 feet out of sustained 5.9 climbing reach a white dike and look left along the dike to spot a great and welcome jug. Figure out how to reach the jug and stand on it (5.10a/b R). Bolt 4 is another 10 feet above this. Head up and left to bolt 5 around golden polish, real near the big right facing corner. Bolt 6 is up and right about 15 feet with some cool moves and the technical crux. Straight up to hit the top of the corner and a good fixed pin. Up to a rusted 1/4" spinner and right to the bolted belay. (5.10b 165 feet)

P3: Straight up knobs to a bolt, cut left to a giant knob cluster (5.10b) and up a nice right facing low angle crack with finger to hand size pro. Follow this up and right (5.7) until it ends and work up and right past a series of super cool bottoming cracks some that take pro (5.8) to the last bolt of the 5.11b bolt line to the right (this loose and contrived route actually). Continue straight up to the large and aesthetic belay ledge - gear belay 1/2" - 2" cams. (5.9 165 feet)

P4: From the right (south) end of the ledge work up and right on nice knobs, head up to an obvious large knob that could be slung up to a rusty 1/4" bolt (5.8R). Make a delicate traverse right (5.9 scary for follower) and finish on the roof pitch of Roseanne. Gear belay above.

Cruz low angle 3rd or 4th class to the down climb.

Location 

Starts up the Roseanne dihedral just right of Lucky Streaks, high up on the west face of Fairview Dome.

Bolts on this route are really hard to spot and while they are pretty good, they are not modern. Pitch 1 belay bolts are two old, rusted 1/4" with a good 3/8" bolt a couple feet up and right to protect the belay. Pitch 1 and 2 anchors are not set up for bailing off. After completing pitch 3 you have to leave gear if you need to bail.

Protection 

A light rack: Single cams to 2", set of stoppers, set of metolius tcu's smallest through 1", ~10 draws including longer runners and plenty of go for it.


Photos of La Bella Luna Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down on pitch 1 - La Bella Luna
BETA PHOTO: Looking down on pitch 1 - La Bella Luna
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down on P3 - La Bella Luna
Looking down on P3 - La Bella Luna
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott following P2 La Bella Luna showing line of a...
BETA PHOTO: Scott following P2 La Bella Luna showing line of a...

Comments on La Bella Luna Add Comment
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By Vlad S
Sep 15, 2014

Pretty cool route. Definitely worth doing. Although the bolts are all pretty old, they still feel safe - I even tested one of them on the 3rd pitch. The 2nd pitch especially is excellent. The 11b 3rd pitch is not too bad if you ignore the fact that it's 4-5 feet from the 5.7 crack. Only detraction is that the micro edges keep breaking when you stand on them probably due to lack of traffic. It's possible to swing over to the crack at any point of time. I think after the 2nd or 3rd bolt I realized one of my shoes came untied and was able to climb over to the left, sit down on a small ledge, tie the shoelaces, and climb back over to the bolt line.

In the middle of the 2nd pitch you might get suckered in to climb to a bolt up and right that leads to an anchor with purple slings. This is a different variation that is not in the guide book and I'd love to know what it is exactly. La Bella Luna climbs up and slightly left at this point towards a small R-facing corner.

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