|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Marcelo Arbelaez y Arturo Guarnizo|
|Submitted By:||Juan Urrego on Nov 1, 2012|
|Comments on La abeja||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Dec 26, 2016
Depending how you do this, some locals will call it 5.7. It's 5.7 in the same way LP is 5.7 and the Black Book is 5.6. Climbing one of the two cracks directly through the ceiling is harder (5.10-ish) than traversing right underneath the ceiling (the "5.7" and probably original line).
No matter how you slice it, the climb is really polished and the dusty nature of the alcove only adds to the excitement.
To make the climb "5.7,", climb the corner to the large ceiling. Traverse up and right around the ceiling to a stance (crux), then move back up and left (another worrisome move) to a shelf, where you can shuffle left above the ceiling to the anchor.
It's probably a good idea to clip the bolt above the ceiling and to the right of the belay anchor with a couple shoulder-length slings as a directional for the follower. Otherwise, if they blow the worrisome move left from the stance, they are going for a big swing back under the ceiling...
Carry gear to at least a blue Camalot and at least four shoulder length slings (more is probably better). If you're going to do either of the 5.10-ish cracks through the ceiling, carry doubles of finger and hand-sized cams.