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La abeja 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA:  Marcelo Arbelaez y Arturo Guarnizo
Season: Any
Page Views: 33
Submitted By: Juan Urrego on Nov 1, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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BETA PHOTO: The climber in the photo is at the stance after ha...

Description 

The crux is in the roof, but it has a cam stock inside te crack, placing another piece to reenforce the movement

Location 

At the bottom of te sector

Protection 

hand size cams and nuts (stoppers)


Photos of La abeja Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A view up Abeja. The two 5.10-ish cracks can be se...
BETA PHOTO: A view up Abeja. The two 5.10-ish cracks can be se...

Comments on La abeja Add Comment
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By Gunkswest
Dec 26, 2016

Depending how you do this, some locals will call it 5.7. It's 5.7 in the same way LP is 5.7 and the Black Book is 5.6. Climbing one of the two cracks directly through the ceiling is harder (5.10-ish) than traversing right underneath the ceiling (the "5.7" and probably original line).

No matter how you slice it, the climb is really polished and the dusty nature of the alcove only adds to the excitement.

To make the climb "5.7,", climb the corner to the large ceiling. Traverse up and right around the ceiling to a stance (crux), then move back up and left (another worrisome move) to a shelf, where you can shuffle left above the ceiling to the anchor.

It's probably a good idea to clip the bolt above the ceiling and to the right of the belay anchor with a couple shoulder-length slings as a directional for the follower. Otherwise, if they blow the worrisome move left from the stance, they are going for a big swing back under the ceiling...

Carry gear to at least a blue Camalot and at least four shoulder length slings (more is probably better). If you're going to do either of the 5.10-ish cracks through the ceiling, carry doubles of finger and hand-sized cams.

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