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Nicolum Knob
Select Route:
Crack, The 
Dead Soles S 
Exaggerator T 
First Blood T 
Greed  S 
Kemosabe T 
Kyle Hudie Route T 
Land Down Under T 
Life On A Chain T,S 
Lust S 
Oddjob T 
Sakura T 
To Bolt or Not to Bee T 

Kyle Hudie Route 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tyler Linn
Page Views: 19
Submitted By: Dru on Feb 11, 2009

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Description 

Climb the first few meters of First Blood (the 5.6 crack) then move right on a thin flake to the arete. Continue up the slabby arete to where it steepens and the bouldery crux section begins. Thin slab climbing past bolts leads to a move right around the arete onto a vertical wall and an almost footless mantel onto a large shelf. Continue up slabbier rock above to trees and a bolt belay.

It is possible to continue up a second pitch via a mossy slab over a giant detached flake (a few 5.6 moves with one bolt) another 25m or so to reach the ledge below Land Down Under, Exaggerator, Life on a Chain etc.

Location 

This route is the right-hand one on the same ledge as Dead Soles and First Blood. Approach up the trail, take the fork marked "Base" and follow fixed lines across ledges to the right-hand bolt belay.

To get down, make two raps - one to the intermediate anchor on First Blood (20m) and one to the base ledge from there (25m).

Protection 

Gear to 1" and 5? bolts.


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