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Kurzer Zauber 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: R. Wieczorek 1982
Page Views: 87
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Jun 10, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Kurze Zauber goes straight up to the bolt, then up...

Description 

A seldom climbed route, and for good reason. I gave it one star because I made a mistake, but I don't really think it deserves any. However, it's not so bad as to give it a bomb rating. If you would enjoy getting on something that feels like an FA (outside of the fact that there's already a bolt in there), then you should do this route. It's not that bad, it's just a little odd. The holds aren't especially positive, which is what I was expecting when I got on it. Maybe knowing that, you might like it more than I did.
Climb on unchalked holds (vertical navigation practice) up to the bolt. The crux is before the first bolt, which is about 15 feet up and is the only bolt. From here, continue straight up to the top where an anchor awaits.

Location 

1st route you come to. Look left when you come around the corner and before you get to the overhang of Kleine Hexen müssen hexen.

Protection 

1 bolt + anchor


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