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YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Kurt Albert 1976
Page Views: 56
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Sep 12, 2011

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One of the first routes to break into the 7th grade, and it's also a classic. And like many of Kurt Albert's routes, it takes some route-finding skill to figure out where to go. The bolts are pretty far apart (also characteristic of Kurt), so bring your courage and some runners to extend the clips to reduce rope drag at the top. This is mandatory for the 3rd and 4th bolts, but use your judgement on the rest.

The run of the route: the first bolt is high and up and slightly to the right of where the name is painted on the rock. The well-bolted line to the left is Fucking Bush. Climb up to this first bolt (place a small stopper in a crack below the bolt to protect the last not-juggy moves to it) then continue straight up to the 2nd bolt. From here, head up and left following the good holds. There's a new bolt here which wasn't there during the first ascent. Clip it anyway! Extend it. It's ridiculously far, otherwise, from the original 2nd to 3rd bolts. Head up and right to the "3rd" bolt (if you follow the jugs to the left you're following Fucking Bush). Immediately below the "3rd"/4th bolt, I found it to be tenuous and, if I hadn't clipped that 3rd bolt, terrifying. If your belayer is light and you blew those moves without having clipped the new bolt, you'd likely take a 60ft. grounder. Extend the 4th bolt. From here, head up and pretty far left. From the 5th bolt the route is less confusing. Simply continue straight up. You'll climb up a juggy flake, and then continue up the right bolt-line through jugs to the anchor. The climbing is easier up here, but with the rest of the route behind you and the weight of the rope it's pumpy.

The name means Aerobatics, which alurs to what you'll be doing should you fall at the wrong time.
As for the length of the route, I've seen people tie two 60m ropes together and use two Gri-Gris to make the transition over the knot. A 70m rope will just get you back down.


On the right side of the massive buttress.


8 bolts + anchor

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