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Kung Fu 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Original:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 909
Submitted By: Tony Brengosz on Sep 17, 2014

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Kung Fu

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This problem is basically Baldy with bad beta, considering it starts and finishes in the same place, and all the holds on Baldy are within reach. That said, it's a very fun eliminant problem.

Start on the flat edge of Baldy, do the first move, then bust left to the crimp rail on the face. Avoid using the arete after the first move, and top out with the same cool mantle as Baldy.

Location 

Arete on the back side of the Butt Trumpets boulder

Protection 

Pad


Photos of Kung Fu Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: SDS to rail, then top out a bit left.
BETA PHOTO: SDS to rail, then top out a bit left.

Comments on Kung Fu Add Comment
Show which comments
By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 20, 2014

Baldy sit starts the arete, and finishes at the top on the right side of said arete. Kung Fu shares the starting moves, then heads left on the overhanging side with the good crimp rails, finishing quite a bit left of the arete with an awkward, yet rewarding mantle. Much harder than Baldy... take 6 points for Kung Fu.
By Tony Brengosz
Sep 21, 2014

How far left is "quite a bit"? I topped out on the good crimps on the lip that are directly above the crimp rail on the face. That is also where I topped out Baldy though, so I guess I did Baldy wrong? Fun problem though, and definitely harder than Baldy.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 23, 2014



I should have been more clear- the mantle is quite a bit left, the finish higher up is on the left side of the arete.
By Nat Smale
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 23, 2014
rating: V6 7A

Hmm,..., that doesn't look like what I thought was Kung Fu. The climber's right hand was on the arete the whole way up. I thought Kung Fu went left to the crimps much lower, and with both hands avoiding the upper part of the arete. Looks kinda like a mix between Kung Fu and Baldy. Still, an excellent variation!
By Tony Brengosz
Sep 24, 2014

Like Nat says, I've always understood Kung Fu to avoid the arete entirely after the first move, which to me makes the most sense.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 26, 2014

Yeah, I never have done it like the video either. However, the moves that I feel really distinguish kung-fu, and what the video clearly shows, are those of the finishing mantle. I didn't intend to create any more confusion;)

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