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YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Paul Cousar, 1989
Page Views: 5,098
Submitted By: Kayte Knower on Oct 23, 2006

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Kundalini was Rumney's first 5.13, until kneebar technology downrated the climb to 12+. Although a bit on the short side, the line is lovely, following a striking orange and mica streak through dark rock. Start left of the first bolt by stepping off large boulders and move right to gain a rest on the slab. Then move up and left on small crimps and tackle the kneebar crux, a stab out left from an oppressive sloper. Kundalini is actually a type of yoga involving tense, muscular poses, and that's exactly what the route requires. After the crux, the moves get progressively easier, though still interesting, through the small roof to the chains.


Kundalini is the unmistakable orange streak on the far left side of Bonsai past the Peer Pressure corner.


Bolts. Consider stick clipping the first bolt, the starting moves are harder than they look. Also, a long draw on the third bolt is helpful.

Photos of Kundalini Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux of Kundalini.  Photo by Karen
The crux of Kundalini. Photo by Karen
Rock Climbing Photo: Fred on kundalini
Fred on kundalini
Rock Climbing Photo: Me getting funky on kundilini
Me getting funky on kundilini
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim on the upper part of Kundalini... photo by the...
Tim on the upper part of Kundalini... photo by the...
Rock Climbing Photo: This shows the kneebar beta in the crux... photo b...
This shows the kneebar beta in the crux... photo b...

Comments on Kundalini Add Comment
Show which comments
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Sep 10, 2007
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Another good powerful line @ Rumney
By Sean Kurnas
Jun 16, 2015

This climb feels absurdly hard to me. Not that I'm any expert at 12+/13- rock climbing, but it feels way harder than anything I've tried in that range.

Maybe it's because my knee doesn't fit well in the knee-bar. More likely it's because I'm weak. In any case, fair warning.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 16, 2015
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

It felt that way to me at first as well... it is a little tricky and quite powerful in the crux (at least the way I did it) then it eases up quite a bit... If you play on it a bit and think outside the box it might just come to you... at 6'2" i didn't think I'd get the kneebar but with some trickery i managed to get it, though it never felt perfect, it worked... best of luck! its worth the work!
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Oct 5, 2015

Knee-bar technology, pushing Rumney into the 21st century of climbing! Futuristic!
By S. Neoh
Oct 5, 2015

Being older sucks 95% of the time but, in this case, I got a chuckle reading the above comment. Knee bars and knee pads were quite common at places like Rifle by the early 1990's. I used a totally superfluous double knee bar on Fuzzy Underling at RRG in '96. That said, the knee bar "version" of this route might not have been climbed until after 2000. Not sure.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Oct 5, 2015

John Mallery wore kneepads a lot in the early 80's..most of the time I wasn't sure why.

Maybe he was just anticipating the wave of the future ?

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