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Kuffner Ridge T 
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Kuffner Ridge 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b AI2

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 2000', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b AI2 [details]
FA: Moritz von Kuffner, Alexander Burgener, Josef Furrer, and a porter, 1887
Season: Summer
Page Views: 272
Submitted By: Bogdan P on Aug 5, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Kuffner Ridge, September 2015 (not in condition). ...

Description 

Begins with a 100m snow ramp either to the Fourche Bivouac (left) or right at the base of where the ridge up Mont Maudit steepens (right). If going to the Fourche Bivouac, note that it's not visible from the Geant Glacier, as it's just over the top of the ridge on the Breva side. Follow the path of least resistance up the ridge until you find yourself below a large rock spire (Pointe de l'Androsace). Turn this spire on the left by an exposed but easy mixed traverse. A 4c (5.7) crux has to be overcome in order to reascend to the ridge. Pitons are in place.

Continue to follow the path of least resistance along snow aretes and mixed ground to the north east shoulder of Mont Maudit. Snow slopes and corniced ridges are overcome by their north side and provide access to the summit of Mont Maudit, or a premature descent to the Trois Monts route.

Location 

Take the Geant Glacier around the south side of the Grand Capucin to where the glacier curves around the back side of Mont Blanc du Tacul. The ridgeline extending from the Tour Ronde on the left hand side of this valley runs up to the summit of Mont Maudit. The Kuffner ridge begins from the low point of this ridge and follows snow aretes and mixed rock to the summit of Mont Maudit.

Protection 

Couple cams, nuts, screws. Single piton in place to belay the crux and a second piton available for pulling the crux if needed.


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