Krottenseer Turm Rock Climbing
This impressive tower of limestone is home to several of the most famous lines in the Frankenjura, most notably Wolfgang Gullichs Wallstreet, the first 5.14b in the world. The routes on the left side of this northwest-facing wall tend towards thin and technical climbing, while those on the right would be considered jug hauls just about anywhere else in the world. Despite the old-school bolt-spacing and climbing style, this crag still sees a good amount of traffic. Its not uncommon to see budding hard men try their hands at Hitchhike the Plane, and expect a constant queue for Westwand on weekends and holidays.
Located adjacent to Maximilianswand and its 50+ routes, this is a good place to spend an entire day, with routes ranging from 5.easy to 5.14. It features a 1-minute approach, ample shade, and some of the routes will stay mostly dry in the rain.
From Neuhaus, follow the signs to Krottensee, and then once there, follow the signs to Maximiliansgrotte (well-signed). After passing the parking area for Maximiliansgrotte, continue along the same road (which turns to gravel just as you pass the cave parking) for 2.1km as it twists through the forest. Park on the left at a 4-5 car pullout with a kiosk. You can see Krottenseer Turm through the trees to the east from the kiosk. Follow the obvious trail to the cliff.
Climbing Season For the Frankenjura area.
Weather station 23.0 miles from here
4 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Krottenseer Turm
Chasin the Trane 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Europe
: ... : Krottenseer Turm
In 1981, the great John Bachar visited Germany to participate in an international climbing festival. During his visit he claimed the first ascent of this open project on the right side of Krottenseer Turm. He graded the route 5.13a, which made it the hardest route in Europe at the time, and one of the hardest in the world. The name is taken from the title of a John Coltrane album, and a not-so-subtle dig at the European climbing scene. According to Güllichs Biography A Life in the Vertica...[more] Browse More Classics in International