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YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R [details]
FA: David Caunt
Page Views: 4,670
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jul 7, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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A second shot of David Caunt on the FA of "Kr...

Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. MORE INFO >>>


Located in the middle of the south side, this route is nearly always in the shade.

This interesting climb isn't too much about power, just keeping yourself balanced on a route with minimal footholds. There's a 5.11 move in the bottom near the first bolt that involves a smear move, and then sustained 5.11 lieback from the second bolt to the top, getting tougher as you move up. The crux is getting yourself to the top anchors, as the feet are non-existant in this section.

For an added burn, link this up with hocus.


3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. On lead, you can protect the section after the first bolt with a large (2 1/2" - 4") friend.

Bring short slings (3') for a top rope. The top of this route can be accessed without climbing it by moving across the slab below the large honeycomb structure.

Photos of Krokus Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: beta with bolts
BETA PHOTO: beta with bolts
Rock Climbing Photo: Here is David Caunt on the FA of this fine route i...
Here is David Caunt on the FA of this fine route i...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bolts and route of Krokus
BETA PHOTO: Bolts and route of Krokus

Comments on Krokus Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 19, 2004

I took many lead falls trying to get this route, watch your shins! I didn't think it was run out too much. #9 metolius I believe,or a big hex to protect the mungy middle of the climb. There were a couple of pockets in/near the crux that offer decent holds. I got to the anchors but never redpointed. Oh yeah, that was 8-9 years ago. I live in boulder now and still think of this route.
By Greg Collins
Jan 23, 2006

Excellent climb. Like the previous poster, Ive fallen more times on this than I care to remember. Blue camalot protects the step across - but probrably not needed. Bolt placement makes it not at all scary, but uber frustrating to keep slowly coming off the moves. Fun climb to work and very subtle changes reap huge rewards. Ive give it a "relative" great....great for the area
By Anders
From: Berkeley
Nov 17, 2014

This climb is hard. I haven't sent it yet. So far it feels like solid 5.12. Way harder than Donkey Dong. More to follow when I finally figure out the moves...
By Julian Bobilev
Apr 4, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13

Amazing line! The crux upper arete may only be about 10 feet tall but you have to do about ten-fifteen sustained moves in that segment. Pretty safe climb as both the runout segment to the cam placement and the runout to the bolt above that are only about 5.8-5.9. Wish more people did this climb! Hoping for a redpoint soon.

Edit: Now that I've redpointed, going to respect the historic 5.11d grade, this feels 5.12a to me though.
By David Liao
May 1, 2016

A truly beautiful route that rewards slow static foot movements, creative sequencing, unbelievable body tension on nothing foot bumps, and above all, strong mental focus. The mind is silent with concentration much of the way through.

It took me 10+ burns across multiple sessions to send, a true labor of love.

Big but safe falls.

Castle Rock classic.

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