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Lost World Butte
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Birthday Gift, The T 
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Entreating Entrance T 
Gateway to the Lost World. T 
Golden Brown T 
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Kripling Groove 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C2

Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 320', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C2 [details]
FA: Paul Ross Layne Potter
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 681
Submitted By: USBRIT on Dec 2, 2009

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Ross on first pitch

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


P1) Climb the corner crack to a two bolt belay .C2,110'.P2 Follow a sandy crack to a move right to a ledge. Climb free past a large blocks to bolt anchors below a superb looking 3.5 inch overhanging crack 5.7 C1 60'P3)Follow the spectacular crack leap frogging #3 and #3.5 friends to bolt anchors below an right leaning overhanging flake. 5.7 C2 90'P4)With large cams climb the flake and finish up a wide chimney to the top.5.6 C1 60'. Descent:- Rap to a long ledge from two bolts belay station located by walking the descent from "Gateway to the Lost World". An easier descent can be made down Pearly Gates . Follow the long ledge right for about 10 mins to rap anchors that brings one to the midway point on the Pearly Gates easy ramp.Walk down to a bolt that protects the last few moves to the ground.


The route follows a very steep and sometimes an overhanging groove/crack system up the prominent buttress between Mirage Crack and "Gateway to the Lost World"Kripling Groove is a pun on a famous English Lake District climb named Kipling Groove (Rudyard).On the first attempt when the peyote moon was prominent ,Ross took a fall near the top of the first pitch tearing a leg muscle. At the start of the second pitch Pheasant took a fall ,hitting his foot on a ledge fracturing his heel bone,and was last seen hopping with his foot in plaster back to Hawaii !Ross took a week off and returned with Potter to complete the climb.


Friends , Many #).5 through #2 for P1, Three #3 through #3.5. for P2 Standard desert rack including two #5 and one #6 ,a few medium stoppers two 60m ropes.

Photos of Kripling Groove Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on the First Ascent of Kripling Groove.
Climbers on the First Ascent of Kripling Groove.

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