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Krakatoa 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Dudley Chelton, Richard Smith, 1973
Page Views: 179
Submitted By: Dougald MacDonald on Dec 10, 2015

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  • Description 

    This is a long crack pitch on the left side of the Hands of Destiny area. It has some suspect and/or dirty rock, but otherwise it is very fun. If you like desert towers and that sort of thing, you'll enjoy this route.

    Moderate climbing leads to a bulging, left-trending crack and flake system out of an alcove. (If you clip the bolt on the neighboring route before starting this section, use a long sling to reduce rope drag.) My PG-13 rating comes from the fact that you have to place gear behind some big blocks in this section. They seem solid, but you never know. When the angle eased, we stepped right, around a little prow, and face-climbed to the bolted anchor on the Fifth World. This was fun and added a brief second crux. P1 is 90'.

    We did not do the 5.9 second pitch.

    Protection 

    Finger- to hand-size nuts and cams. Doubles in the small to large hand size are nice.


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