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Graischer Bleisteinwände
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Broken Heart S 
Eibenweg S 
Ex und Hopp S 
Flasche Leer S 
Hasardeur S 
Hauruck S 
Höhlenweg S 
Koung S 
Pappnase S 
Scharfe Braut S 
Schwarte S 


YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Boehm/Hessing 2001
Page Views: 36
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Jun 13, 2011

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Climb up easy rock to the first bolt. Balance up to the second bolt. Make tricky moves to the third bolt (crux). Climb the crack and some face holds to the fourth bolt and take a rest (if you didn't already at the third bolt) and fire through the roof. Good holds are off to the left and a heel hook and mantel were my tactics for negotiating this roof. Easy climbing leads to the anchor.


In the Bleiwand Sector (see Broken Heart), climb the left of the two routes which tackle the slabby and slightly blank looking wall to the right of the little tower that Broken Heart and Pappnase are on. (If you bought the guidebook and are looking at doing the 7 (Bunte Kuh) as a warm-up, this is what the book describes it as: "More of a toilet for a dormouse than a worthwhile route." That's what all that green stuff is.)


6 bolts + anchor

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