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Third Buttress
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Kosmology 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 58
Submitted By: BrianWS on Jun 7, 2015

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Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Mostly shelf scrambling, this route offers very little "real" climbing. Start with a difficult move through a flaring jam and roof, and barely tolerate about 60 feet of easy 4th and 5th class climbing through ledge after ledge. Finally, you will be rewarded with about 25 feet of bolted handcrack. Why this was led by yours truly, or even equipped for that matter, is beyond me.

And alternative finish branches left from the end of the first crack system. It allegedly goes at 11+.

Location 

Starts 20 feet right of super moon. Look for a bolt just above a roof and short flaring crack, about 10 feet off the deck.

Protection 

Bolts and rap rings. All are in excellent condition.


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By AndyJohnson
From: Alexandria, VA
Sep 8, 2015
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

After a brief crux roof, this route offers some decent and fun climbing. It is a little easy in the middle and has plenty of rest stances, but the upper half has some very fun moves.

The variation out left feels much harder than 11+. As crimps go from good to bad, the feet do as well, and the ultimate move to a flat / sloping bulge feels very insecure. Perhaps you could dyno past it to a perfect jug. Either way, I think this crux is easily in the 5.12 range for average-height climbers.