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Kopakabana 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: G Kopalides '14
Page Views: 12
Submitted By: Mr. Stevens on Aug 1, 2017

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Copacabana, Brazil

Description 

Copacabana is a neighborhood located in the southern part of the city of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. It is also a phenomenal rock climb at the Panorama sector on the island of Kalymnos, Greece.

Start with some jugs and a fun mantle to get established on the shared ledge with Mind Boggle. Compose yourself here and figure out your plan of attack for the upcoming crux. Incredibly sequential climbing on positive pockets and crimps leads to not-so-positive crimps and less-than-stellar feet. But do you see that HUGE tufa blob? Yea, it's as good as you think it is. Stick the final move and you'll be rewarded with a wonderful sit down rest in a large hole. If you don't stick it, you're going for a ride...

The bolting through the crux is exciting. The positive is that you don't have to worry about clipping mid-crux, but the negative is that you'll be logging some serious air-time as you work the crux. Especially if you botch it at the very end. It's not un-safe, but you may find yourself back at the first bolt. If you've got a belayer giving you some "euro" slack and standing 20 feet away from the wall (why do they do that?!?) then I'd make sure you've got good travel insurance...

Anyway, you've stuck the crux and you've rested up. From the hole, tufa bash your way up the slightly overhung wall. Pinches, laybacks, hand jams, jugs, it's got it all, including a red point crux right before the wall turns to vertical. Catch a quick rest at a good stance, and climb pockets to the chains.

Phenomenal route, my favorite of the the 12c's in this sector (Mind Boggle, Super Carpe Diem). It also felt the hardest. However, it's a newer route, so the tufas still had some flaky sections from the lack of traffic.

Location 

Left side of panorama

Protection 

bolts


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