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Tribal War S 

Kootenai Cruiser 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Chris Grijavla
Page Views: 2,138
Submitted By: LeeAB on Sep 8, 2006

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Sticking...barely, the throw. Everything stayed on...

Description 

This is the second route from the right and starts off the high point of the slab at the base of the wall and heads up and left, Custer's Last Stand heads up and right.

Make long moves right from the start on holds that are somehow not as good as on the other routes. An awkward sequence leads up into the bulge and a kneebar to get over to a good pocket. Take a deep breath and move up on some smaller holds, the left of which will eat your finger tips for lunch. A big move to a small but positive hold, choose which terrible hold you want to use as an intermediate and jump for all your worth for the positive holds above. 5.12 climbing on lower quality stone leads to the anchor.

You could call the whole thing from the start to the dyno the crux, there is no rest and it just seems to get harder as you go.

Protection 

Bolts to a glue in anchor that needs to be threaded.


Photos of Kootenai Cruiser Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cool and physical undercling sequence. Photo by Ma...
Cool and physical undercling sequence. Photo by Ma...
Rock Climbing Photo: Working through the upper headwall on easier climb...
Working through the upper headwall on easier climb...
Rock Climbing Photo: Setting up for the climactic dyno at the end of th...
Setting up for the climactic dyno at the end of th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving up into the crux. Photo by Matt Moore
Moving up into the crux. Photo by Matt Moore
Rock Climbing Photo: The physical 4th clip which is mandatory since you...
The physical 4th clip which is mandatory since you...
Rock Climbing Photo: Procrastinating at the start of the route. Photo b...
Procrastinating at the start of the route. Photo b...

Comments on Kootenai Cruiser Add Comment
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By Owen Summerscales
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 26, 2016

Ed found that the penultimate hold on Kootenai Cruiser now contains an active beehive, see photo. He found that he could finish the route on the project anchor without getting too close to the bees. Heads up!

Rock Climbing Photo: Active beehive at top of Kootenai Cruiser
Active beehive at top of Kootenai Cruiser
By marios
From: Dallas, Texas
Sep 28, 2016

Thanks for that, heading down in Oct and Nov.