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Kookaburra Crack T 

Kookaburra Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Submitted By: jim.dangle on Oct 20, 2013

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Kookaburra Crack (5.7) is on the left. To the rig...

Description 

This is a really sweet, albeit short, hand crack.

Start out with nice hands, but it quickly goes to off-hands (yellow BD) requiring some fun, interesting jamming. That size is fairly uncommon around here, and, if it were steeper, it would be much more awkward. As it is, there are face holds that ease the grade (as does using the crack to the right). For full value, jam it the whole way up.

There was an old, rotted tree and roots system that required some hefty cleaning. Remnants of it are still around and the crack could use a little rain to wash it out. It is climbable as is though.

PLEASE NOTE: There is a nice looking crack just to the right of this that should be cleaned at some point, but as of 10/14, there is large, loose flake atop this other crack. It is big enough that it will take some work, and, once started, it needs to come down. I think the flake is stable, but it is in a position that it would be grabbed and could cause serious injury if it came down. It does NOT interfere with Kookaburra Crack at all.

Location 

This located in the Down Under Over area of Down Under. It's actually on the same buttress as Doug's Roof, only behind and on an upper tier. Walk up the ravine to the top of the buttress past a boulder head down to the first tier encountered looking for two fairly obvious cracks. This can also be reached by walking all the way around the base.

Protection 

This is a sweet crack on perfect rock, so it can be as G as you like. That said, if you really want to sew it up, take multiples of size 2 (yellow) BD. You can find spots for other sizes throughout, but you have to look.

There is a good tree at the top for a TR. Take longish slings.



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