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Kongsvoll
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Kongsvollsfossen 

Kongsvollsfossen 

WI4

   
Type:  Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade II
Original: WI4 [details]
FA: 
Season: December-March
Page Views: 135
Submitted By: Kristian Starheim on Aug 31, 2014

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Last section of Kongsvollsfossen. The standard top...

Description 

This is a large ice flow that goes all the way from the mountain plain at 1270 meters to the valley floor. It builds up fat through the winter. It offers many possibilities, and can take several parties. A really good outing with great views over Dovre. The big local classic.

The whole flow can be climbed, but as days are short, most people bushwack up climbers right of the flow, and start the climbing where the flow steepends. There are good ledges for racking up.

"P0": solo or climb the easier sections between the ledges (WI2)

P1 (WI3): the easiest version trends right. If you stretch the rope, you'll have a nice belay under a left-leaning ramp.

P1 (red dihedral alternative, WI4): a beautiful dihedral in red rock fills with ice throughout the season. This offer a steeper version of P1.

P2 (WI2): Left-trending, first up ramp, then different variations up to large ledge under the last steeper pitch. Keep left for the easiest version, or head more straight up for some WI4-action.


P3 (WI3-4+). The last ice varies a lot. It might be a thick WI3 pillar, delicate curtains, overhanging structures, or mixed climbing. When fat, it is usually OK WI4 climbing. If the top is thin, it is possible to top out with a couple of M3+ moves on the rigth hand side of the top-flow.

Location 

Large ice flow just north of Kongsvollen Mountain Cabin. Park roadside approximately at the foot of the ice flow, and follow flow from the valley and up at the lefthand side of the flow. Or climb the whole thing if you are confident.

The decent can be tricky to find. It is important to find the rigth track to avoid difficult terrain. The days are short, weather can be very harsh at this altitude, and can be difficult and dangerous. I therefore reccomended the Guide book for Ice Climbing Oppdal, as this gives a good description of this (w/picture).

Protection 

Standard ice rack.


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By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Sep 11, 2016

The descent isn't terrible. Just work your way waaaaaayyyy (climber's) right until you can wander down easy terrain. There isn't much of a defined trail.

We climbed this in less than ideal conditions. definitely a short section of WI4+ with an exposed pull onto a hanging icicle.

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