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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: John Duran
Page Views: 356
Submitted By: Dave Wachter on Jul 11, 2009

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Not like the typical pocket-pulling Eagle Canyon route, this one has some bigger holds and bouldery moves. It's also uncharacteristically short. 12a rating is based on consensus in all 3 guidebooks for the area, but seems easier than some of the hard 11's in the canyon.


The first route in the canyon, on the far left side of the dirt ledge system with Maalox Moment and Killer Bee. Starts with a traverse off the ledge, onto a wall that faces back toward the ledge at 90 degrees. Careful not to fall clipping the first bolt, or you could end up a long way down.


5 bolts to 2-bolt anchor.

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By Shirtless Mike
From: Denver, CO
Apr 25, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Nope, probably not 12a, as it's mostly good pockets with only one thin move. Very well protected, bolt spacing is much closer than typical cochiti climbs, once you get the first one clipped of course (stick-clip recommended).

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