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Koka 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 668
Submitted By: Floyd Hayes on Nov 11, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

I'm surprised this obvious trad route was never given a name or posted as a climb, perhaps because nearly all climbers at Mt. St. Helena prefer sport climbing and seldom climb trad routes. The route starts just left of Kola, which inspired the name I've dubbed this climb. Climb up the offwidth crack (1 star) and then the hand crack (4 stars) to the Kola anchor. Surprisingly there are very few face holds beside the hand crack, which requires some hand jamming. The crux is pulling a bulge at the start of the hand crack and then hanging on to place gear.

Location 

Starts at the offwidth crack just left of Kola.

Protection 

A quickdraw for a bolt (which can be skipped) and a set of cams up to 5 inches (up to 2 inches if you sling a chockstone).


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By Floyd Hayes
Nov 11, 2013

The hand crack was strenuous and felt like 5.9 when I led it onsight, but it might be 5.8.
By Pat Hastings
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 25, 2014
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

I also did this as an onsight lead. I found plenty of holds inside the crack, few hand jams and no foot jams were needed. Very fun, but I think no more than 5.8, if that.
By Floyd Hayes
Feb 22, 2015

After leading it a second time it felt easier, more like 5.8.

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