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Kobe Tai 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,655
Submitted By: ferrells on Oct 13, 2013

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  • Description 

    Great movement on solid edges on a steep wall. Start with your right hand on a good sloping crimp, your left hand on an undercling, and paste your right foot on the best thing you can find. Establish on the wall, stab left, stab right, and power straight up from there. The first three moves are the crux, but the mantel is wide-open, and you can feel the gaping maw below. Be precise with the mantel, keep your breathing under control, and you should be fine.

    Location 

    30 feet right of Dangle, on the gigantic Ruminator boulder. Recognize it by the steep crimps on a hollowed out scoop with a pretty freaky landing.

    Protection 

    4 pads and 3 spotters worked really well for me, but there still felt like significant risk of flying into the pit below. So yeah, I'm not sure how to protect this boulder so that the topout isn't quite so committing. I wore a chalk bag so that I could chalk my right hand for the mantel.


    Comments on Kobe Tai Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By ABWise
    Jul 6, 2017

    This weekend we helped fill in the sketchy hole in the pit landing of this problem. The top out will still induce the pucker, but should be a little more comforting knowing you wont fall into the hole down there.
    By V0Hero
    From: 509
    Jul 9, 2017

    Why did you feel it was necessary to alter this bp? Unless youre the FA or something I think that's a pretty egregious breach of ethics. What's done is done but Forestland is already overwhelmed with people - altering landings up there is a sure fire way to get the area closed.
    By Jon Nelson
    Administrator
    From: Bellingham, WA
    Jul 9, 2017

    It should be fine for boulderers to improve the landings as long as the work involves materials from the vicinity. In fact ABWise's work should be applauded.

    If it becomes an issue with some third-party land manager, it will matter zilch as to whether the work was done by the FA party or not.

    Check out The Engineer at Index for an example of folks doing extensive modifying of the landing. I thought it impressive, and all with nearby woody fragments.
    By V0Hero
    From: 509
    Jul 10, 2017

    I wholeheartedly disagree that changing a climb that you did not FA to suit your personal feelings is acceptable.

    Modifying landings from when the FA was done takes away significantly from the experience. Not to mention lincoln log landings are an eyesore. Get stronger and get more buddies up there with their pads if you're scared. The mastery of mind is one of the higher pleasures of hard climbing and now that spirit has been robbed from this one.

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