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Knuckle Buster 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Falkenstein, Dennis Oakeshott, 1975
Season: Spring, Summer or Fall
Page Views: 127
Submitted By: King Tut on Aug 11, 2017

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a Valley Classic splitter finger crack. Not well known because it was not in the "select" guides but as good as any in the Park. Think "Mr. Natural" if a little shorter.

Hiking along the base after the ladder adventure approach you will notice this route starting from a sloping ledge and a maple tree. Patiently work in some wires then fire some thin locks to where the crack opens up a bit. Sustained but lowish angle fingers from there to a fixed anchor (bolts). Modern sticky shoes that work in thin cracks make this easier than the original 5.10d rating, imo.

A perfect splitter as good as any in the park and must do on the Yose fingers circuit. A Chris Falkenstein (Author of Tuolumne Guide) classic.

Location 

To the right of Lehamite Falls.

Protection 

RPs and Wires to start then to cams to ~2" IIRC. Take some larger just in case maybe but scoping from the base may allow you to leave the 3" stuff. TCUs useful.


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By King Tut
From: Citrus Heights
Aug 11, 2017

First digit locks for the crux at the bottom.

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