So I had heard about this and found it on youtube. I personally think it would be really cool to learn this art, although I don't know how much I would trust a knot compared to a nut.
So the question is has anybody used knots to protect a climb?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQstfpiYu_A
EeT
·
Nov 12, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2015
· Points: 0
I did it a few times on easy mixed routes. I didnt have gear but wanted to climb the route and had read about it. If your knots to construction ratio is right its a blast. And I even hung on one just to see how it would set.. and it was pretty hard to get back out.
Never used them myself but have found them on a few old routes in the Red Rocks and they do make things a bit spicy. That said, if you are on the sharp end and suddenly realize you are about to run out of static protection and have nothing else, a jammed knot will suffice. The ones I have seen were always frost knots in tubular webbing, which allow far more contact in a crack than rope, perlon, or kevlar because more of the surface is in direct contact with the rock. The rule is - Just don't fall.
Sure, for anyone who´s been climbing for more than about 40 years they were common practice. I bolted a sport route using one as a re-belay last week and it survived my considerable weight jugging twice no problem.
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