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A Little on the Ugly Side T,S 
Air Voyager With Report S 
Automotive Supply House T 
Baalbek T 
Baldwin's Chimney T 
Banana Hammock 
Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) T 
Bat Heaven T,TR 
Blood Sport TR 
Bombay T 
Bombs Away aka B52 T 
Bug Squad T 
Campsite Host Boulder 
Candlestick T 
Cannonball T 
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Central Scrutinizer, The T 
Cool Hand Luke T 
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Father 1 T 
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Flare Thee Well T 
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Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated T,TR 
Fourth of July Roof T 
Friday the 13th T 
Friday the 13th, Part 2 T 
Ghost Dance T 
Grand Traverse, The T 
Gravity's Rainbow T 
H & H Grunt T 
Hairlip T 
Hamburger Crack T 
Handjacker T 
Harder Than Your Husband T 
Hemoglobin T,TR 
Hesitation Blues T 
Horticulture T 
Humper T 
Hurley-Fowler T 
I'm Spartacus T 
In The Dark T 
In the Groove T 
Jim Jam T 
Jim Jam Junior T 
Joke T 
Kiai T 
Knee Grinder T,TR 
Knothole T 
Left Torpedo Tube T 
Lower Progressive T 
Lower Slot and Upper Slot T 
Lower Slot Left T 
Lucky You T 
Max Factor T 
MaxiLash T 
Middle Parallel Space T 
Mother 1 T 
Murphy's Law 
Nemo's Nemesis S 
Nemo's Toad T,TR 
New Mutant T 
Nitrogen Narcosis T 
Octagon T 
October Light T 
Old Eyeful T 
Outrider S 
Par Four T,TR 
Petite Tarsalation T,TR 
Piton Perch T 
Popcorn Farce T 
Postman, The T,S 
Pretty S 
Republic, The 
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Right Winger T 
Shotgun Willy  
Sitdown Seam 
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Slat T 
Slick and Superficial T,S 
Slit T 
Slut T,TR 
Soak'em In Cider 
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Step Ladder T 
Stinkzig T 
Straight 4 Ward T,TR 
Stranded at Sea T 
Sun Up To Sundown 
Tarsalation T,TR 
Ted's Trot T 
Thin Lizzy T 
Thunderbolt T 
Twinkle Toes 
Unknown Crystal Slab 
Unknown Mantle 
Upper Progressive T 
Upper Slot Left T 
Vault T 
Vedajuicer, The T 
Vulture Direct T 
W.C. Fields T 
Wall-To-Wall T 
War Zone T,S 
Where the Sidewalk Ends 
Whipping Boy T 
Willem Dafoe's Blood Penis TR 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 1,333
Submitted By: lenore sparks on Jun 4, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up Knot Hole.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


50' left of Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) is a wide crack to squeeze chimney. Rap any of the multiple anchors on this wall.


#2-5 Camalots (the small stuff for an anchor).

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By Matt Richardson
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 19, 2009

This route starts about 100 yds to the left of the Friday the 13th Buttress and is apparent by the gaping start of the off width about 30' up (the so-called Knothole). Start in a left leaning chimney that will probably go at about 5.4. Follow this for about 30' to a ledge. Notice the gaping maw of the crack above that you will be struggling to jam your tired body into. This thing definitely deserves a picture. The crack here is wide and deep, tapering down into pure offwidth misery. Here is where the climbing begins. And it is wide here - I was able to stuff a wobble-y #4 tied to a #3.5 before starting. Shimmy your way up using your offwidth arsenal honed on lesser cracks. After some effort, the angle begins to ease and it would take a missile to knock you out of the crack. Belay at the top. I am not sure what rap anchors are referred to here, but there is a walk off to the southwest that will get you back to the base quickly and easily.

I am not sure what to rate this really. This route spit off two that were following me (one couldn't make it past the bulge and the other had to pull on gear) and both made it up Lower Slot Right (also an offwidth) with little difficulty. This route was strenuous which made it difficult to assess the actual technical aspect of it. That being said, Kelman has it down as 8 in his Heel Toe guide.

Big gear does well for much of the route. I had singles to a #5 C4 and I used all of the big stuff.
By jbarnum
From: Denver, CO
May 23, 2013

A #5 can be placed from standing on top of a pointed block just before the difficulties. Then grunt up toward the horizontal on the left that will take gear since the crack is now too big for a # 6. This felt no harder than Handjacker.

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