Looking down the chimney of Too Tight for Pleasure...
This is the cliff across from Hurricane Crag on Route 9N. The cliff faces north, so has reliable ice until late in the season. It has several really good routes, such as Unexpected Pleasure, and Magic Line. Some hard mixed stuff too.
From the intersection of Route 9N and Route 73 in Keene, drive east on Route 9N for 4.5 miles. Look for the cliff up and right and park anywhere.
Drop over the guardrail, cross the stream, and head uphill to the cliff. No special landmarks. It takes about 30 minutes.
Climbing Season For the * Adirondack Ice Climbing area.
Weather station 5.5 miles from here
4 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Knob Lock
WI4+ New York
: ... : Knob Lock
OK, OK I know it's listed in the guidebook ("Blue Ice", Don Mellor) as NEI 4 [ WI 4] but the guide also implies the crux is the chockstone whereas the twice I've done it I thought the upper pitch 2 was clearly both more difficult and more sustained. P1 - Start with a short ice step, then climb the (mostly snow) gully that narrows to a deep cleft with a chockstone blocking the way. As the guide states...find your [ mixed ...[more] Browse More Classics in New York