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Knifing Zionist Racists 

A5

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 360', Grade V
Original: A5 [details]
FA: Jim Beyer-solo
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 305
Submitted By: Jim Beyer on Apr 4, 2016

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climbs a line 70' left of the South Face/NW Face arête with no bolts and 12 Zamack rivits. Pitch 1 130' A5 start about 70' right of chimney on the far right end of ledge. beak up and left to cobble ledge then up over 2 small roofs (possible 80' ledge or 100' ground fall)then left on 4 rivet ladder to the #1 Beak Belay.On the first ascent, no piece on this belay was deeper then 3/4" into the rock.The rock is poor and this anchor is marginal for rappel or jumar. Pitch 130' A4+ The 10 placement runout off the top of belay seam is intense.finally the seam opens to 3/4" and the Old School Belay (all pegs) Pitch 3 A3+ traverse left under cap rock then up left into wide chimney. Pitch 4 70' 5.8R traverse left on dirty sloper to chimney then up to true summit.

Protection 

A5 rack


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