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BETA PHOTO: top of 1st pitch
This is the wide crack system to the right of Abra. An interesting route but a very strenuous day and not for those afraid of chimney and offwidth climbing.
Pitch 1: climb the chimney to a belay at the bolts (5.7 R). This is hard to protect without big stuff (and perhaps not protectable even with it) but fairly secure.
Pitch 2: grunt up the crack above (5.10a). This is a little bit of everything - stemming, OW, fist.
Pitch 3: climb up to a bolt and tension traverse left (scary!) to a ledge. The bolt really should be replaced - if it fails the fall would be very nasty. The anchors on P2 are also in bad shape.
Pitches 4-6: join Abra in the cracks below the Friendly Flake.
A bigbro is useful to protect P1 but not necessary. P2 is mostly larger cams but nothing huge is needed. #4 camalot is probably the biggest you need.
Feb 17, 2006
The first pitch may actually warrant a soft "X". I got no pro at all. It's fairly secure (it's a squeeze) but if you DID fall.......badness.
By TJ Aguilera
Oct 8, 2015
Cool route with a new bolt in place for the A0 tension. The 1st pitch takes some gear and is safe with big bros. 2nd pitch is a bit of a grunt but really fun, if you are into that sorta thing.