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Knapping With The Alien 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Kyle Copeland, Linus Platt, 91
Season: Fall to early spring, eve
Page Views: 7,489
Submitted By: Petsfed on May 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (104)
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  • Poop Alert! MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Fun crimps and mantles up an ever-so-slightly under vertical wall. Hard for short people. All the hard moves are at bolts, and/or from large ledges that you can safely land on if you miss. Good holds all the way.


    OBVIOUS sport route on edges, about 50 yards right of Bad Moki Roof.


    5 drilled pins and chains

    Photos of Knapping With The Alien Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Wallstreet - Knapping With The Alien
    Wallstreet - Knapping With The Alien
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Z on lead
    Mike Z on lead
    Rock Climbing Photo: Justin working the rest.
    Justin working the rest.
    Rock Climbing Photo: This is where it gets hard for short people
    This is where it gets hard for short people
    Rock Climbing Photo: Knapping is the face, Mother Trucker is the left f...
    BETA PHOTO: Knapping is the face, Mother Trucker is the left f...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Good shot of the line January, 2011
    Good shot of the line January, 2011
    Rock Climbing Photo: First go at it.
    First go at it.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Perhaps the best part of this climb is belaying ou...
    Perhaps the best part of this climb is belaying ou...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin techin' out Knapping with the Alien
    Kevin techin' out Knapping with the Alien
    Rock Climbing Photo: Crux of Knapping with the Alien
    Crux of Knapping with the Alien

    Comments on Knapping With The Alien Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 30, 2017
    By Dane Casterson
    From: Boulder
    Oct 24, 2007

    Any word on how that last pin before the anchors is fairing? Spring '07 it was getting a little wobbly.
    By T_jones
    From: Salt Lake
    Apr 21, 2008

    Great bolts spaced super close together when I climbed this yesterday...the crux was a little perplexing with so many different holds to choose from that were all pretty bad
    By Greg D
    From: Here
    Jan 30, 2009
    rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    All bolts were in fine condition as of fall 08.
    By Jay Samuelson
    From: Denver CO
    Mar 31, 2010
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    All the bolts on this are fine as of march 2010. What a sweet little route! Good technical face climbing with some good rests to size up the crux moves before you go for it.
    By Conor Raney
    From: Pinedale, WY
    Nov 1, 2010
    rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Loved this one!!! I love napping with really, I do.
    By Jikimika Dinglehoffer
    From: Lander, Wy
    Apr 12, 2011

    Ok climb but watch the ledges around bolt 4, they can be in the path of a fall at the upper crux. Would be great but the feet are WAY too sandy to be doing technically demanding moves on.
    By timothyrgriffen Griffen
    May 4, 2012
    rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

    Not sure if I would call this thing 12a. It's Maybe 5.10 climbing to a v4-boulder problem. Closer to 11c.
    By Skylar Smith
    May 20, 2012

    Excellent route. I would definently recommend this one. I think this is probably 5.11d.
    By D-Storm
    Mar 13, 2014
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

    The route is well bolted – the bolts are exactly where you need them and where the best clipping stances are – but I thought the second clip was kind of dicey. It's sort of mid-crux and you're far enough up and right of the first bolt that you could have a nasty fall onto the ledge if a foot slipped and your core strength gave out. Heads up for anyone unsure about leading the grade.

    @ Timothy regarding the grade: V4 equates to 12a in most V-scale conversion tables I have seen. V3 is 11+, V2 is 11-, and V0 is 5.10; in my experience that's been pretty accurate.

    I guess I'm bringing this up just because I am getting tired of the Moab sandbags and attitude. Call me a weakling, I don't care. I'm just saying that every time I climb around there, I feel an air of arrogance wafting from some locals who hover around the routes they have dialed, spray visitors down with unsolicited beta and then affirm that blahblahblah is really a full grade lower than what it says in the guidebook (if it even says it in the guidebook). I still climb the routes. I still think they're fun and I haven't cared enough to say anything until now, because this attitude is getting old. (This isn't necessarily directed at Tim; he just touched on a topic that set me off.)

    As for me, when it comes to grading routes, I really try to give an honest opinion to help people choose appropriate climbs. Sometimes I get the distinct impression that a dirtbag is just trying to mash my ego down with his big dick, and this is me saying, I get it – your dick is huge. Now leave me alone to enjoy my climbing experience.
    By Jordan Hirro
    From: Colorado Springs/Carbondale
    Mar 27, 2014

    Very very good route. 12- seems right to me... the v4 boulder problem at the top I think constitutes that. Have at her! Super good climbing!
    By Michael Dom
    From: Seattle
    Dec 22, 2015
    rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Really memorable route. If you are under 5'5 you won't reach the first bolt from the ledge. The moves are so cool at the top. I ended up taking some great whips on this route.
    By Samuel Ellis
    Mar 21, 2017
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Awesome route. Watch out for all of the useless chalked up holds on the crux. The beta can get a bit confusing if you let them distract you. The direct approach of the crux is the best way to go.
    By Andrew Gerald Thaller
    Apr 1, 2017
    rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    First time the high bolt can be intimidating but if your worried about it place a .75 BD Camalot. As for a grade it's easier if your tall, so somewhere between 5.10a and 5.13a should cover the egos right?
    By BrokenChairs BrettC
    From: Sultan, WA
    Aug 30, 2017
    rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Me and this route: I'm driving down Potash looking for a route and everything (as usual) is crowded and then I spot this beauty. I was like that looks like Nervous in Suburbia! Babe pull over lets do this 5.10. Her: do you know what it is? Me: no but look at it it's for sure 5.10. Lesson learned not all routes are as they appear. I absolutely enjoyed it though.

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