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Golder Dome
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Klingons in the Neutral Zone 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: EFR/ BKy 88
Season: In shade til mid afternoon
Page Views: 249
Submitted By: Dj telle on Oct 29, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Golder right side

Description 

Check out Bob Kerry's guide "Backcountry Rockclimbing in S. Az for more info about the route.

Another quality route up Golder !

Starts at ledge with tree and brown streaks. The route goes up the streaks to the dihedral on the left end of the lower face.
We found around 5 new bolts and no pin with some route finding involved to get to the dihedral. Big moves on slab. (10c) 140 ft.

Continue up fun cracks and flakes up to a bigger flake. Laybacks and slab moves lead to the two bolt belay. The guide recommends a #4 but we were fine with a #3 blue (.10) 85ft

Head left from the belay and climb the funky dihedral. Follow cracks and powerful laybacks up a seam. After crux, follow wider cracks and head right past some bulges and slight overhangs to a medium sized pine tree at the summit. (.10d) 160ft
The crux can be well protected just hang on and keep going. A worthy Sonoran alpine pitch with spice!


Additional info: Looks like the first pitch got all new bolts. The anchors on top of pitch 1 and 2 have old button heads so upgrading would be a good idea. Also, there are no rap bolts by the tree at the top. You can sling the tree.

Protection 

Doubles from 00 to #3. 15 slings
2 ropes.
Rap the route


Photos of Klingons in the Neutral Zone Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 3rd pitch dihedral
3rd pitch dihedral
Rock Climbing Photo: top of 1st
top of 1st

Comments on Klingons in the Neutral Zone Add Comment
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By 1Eric Rhicard
May 14, 2017

Pin was pulled, with the new gear there is still good protection. Thought we upgraded all the anchors but I guess not. Next trip.

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