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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Gary Slate, Bruce Lella ext: Todd Graham
Page Views: 3,182
Submitted By: Tim Steele on Jan 11, 2007

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juggy klingons rock.


Either chimney up to the 3rd bolt (standard/original start) or fire off the .11c direct start into the pumpy upper wall. Head slightly left and then back right through a short overhang (the crux) to the highest anchors on the wall.

The route that splits off to the right at the 5th bolt is called the "Vulcan Variation" and checks in at .11d, but is not as classic.

This route is considered a gorge classic.


On the South face of the Crystal.


11 bolts + mussy's.

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By 426
Mar 26, 2007

Superb route for the grade.
By Adam Stackhouse
Feb 12, 2008

Excerpt from Rock and Ice interview:

Fed up with the feuding, Bachar became depressed but continued to solo at a high level, especially at Owens River Gorge, which he had all to himself.

But within a couple of months other people found out about the Gorge. "I swear," says Bachar, "within six months there were 100 routes and they were all done on rappel. So again, I said, 'OK, every time these guys put up a route I'm gonna solo the thing.'"

Increasingly upset, Bachar once showed up at the Gorge, pointed his ghetto blaster right up the wall, cranked it to full volume and began soloing Klingon (5.12). "This climber chick came over," he says, "and asked me if I could turn the music down. I said, 'You know what, you guys got rap bolts, I got rap music. I was pretty pissed off. I'd just been through the same thing in Tuolumne. I was like, 'Where do I have to go, Mars?'"
By JamesLucas Lucas
Jan 20, 2012

Rad route- one the best at the Crystal, especially if you want to be onsighting and see a rabies filled bat in one of the pockets higher.

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