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Unsorted Routes:

Kleptocracy 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Josh Gross, Mark Rolofson
New Route: Yes
Season: All
Page Views: 4,237
Submitted By: Josh Gross on Jan 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Photo by Scott Clark, at dscottclarkphoto.com. Ma...

Description 

Stick clip first bolt, this is a very unique route, it has a cool arete section leads to jugs through a bulge followed by a thin move to reach upper roof. Next comes an Inspector Gadget crux (long move), finish this one off with a tweaky move to the anchor. Mark Rolofson's years of route development shine through this masterpiece.

Location 

Kleptocracy is located right of "Bone Crusher".

Protection 

10 bolts.


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Rock Climbing Photo: "Kleptocracy".
"Kleptocracy".

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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Feb 15, 2009

Is this really harder than Bone Crusher? If so, good job.
By blakeherrington
Dec 6, 2011
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

I never redpointed this one before moving away, so I guess my vote is invalid, but this route was a lot of fun to work on and features a really amazing dynamic crux move that I seldom stuck. It sure seemed hard as compared to other ".12d" routes in the area, but I don't have much power for moves like that. Regardless of the grade, it's a great pitch and seems pretty overlooked.
By Taylor Roy
From: Midvale, UT
Dec 13, 2011
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

Great route. Felt like 12c vertical climbing to a huge V5 lunge and then some 11+ slab to the top on flaky rock. I am 5'8" and can barely stick the lunge. So if you are much shorter than me, this might not be the best route for you.
By mlloyd
From: denver
Dec 26, 2011
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

This route is hard and fun, it has interesting movement separated by technical climbing rarely found on Front Range 5.13 sport climbing, the end of the route is the only drawback, the rock is loose and exfoliating and dares you to pull on edges that will in fact send you flying. J-tree tradsters and Yosemite slabmasters will find this route easier than your Rifle crusher due to the complete lack of the crank and dangle.
By SteveZ
From: Denver, CO
Nov 20, 2014

Anyone have beta they wouldn't mind sharing for "the move"? I'm totally stumped! The rest of the route is really cool, but the one move is such a show stopper for me.
By Mark Rolofson
Feb 3, 2017
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

I haven't been on this route since March 2009, but the crux is still burned into my mind. Here's some beta for a tall person: above the overlap, left hand on the angling jug, right hand just above it on the sidepull. Tape your baby finger of your right hand at second joint to avoid getting a nasty cut. Right foot just above the overlap on a small vertical edge to push against. Left foot is below the overlap & the problem is where to put it. If I put it on a big foothold on the left, it pushes my body out from the wall, making the reach or dyno with my left hand to a jug on the diagonal break seem impossible. I put my left foot low & right to keep my body in against the wall for the reach. A shorter climber (like Josh Gross) will be able to get a tiny poor hold on the face with the left hand & then bring the left foot over the overlap. You will be in a frogman position. Then reach the jug.

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