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"Bergfuehrerweg"/ Route of the Guides. T 
Abram Arete T 
Big Micheluzzi T 
Buhl Direct T 
Kleine Micheluzzi/"Little Micheluzzi." T 
Papa Giovanni Paolo II S 
Rampenfuehre / "Ramp" Route T 
Roberta83 S 
Schubert (Friendhip Route) T 
Via Irma T 
Via Rossi - Tomasi T 
Zeni Corner T 

Kleine Micheluzzi/"Little Micheluzzi." 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 10 pitches, 1300'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Luigi Micheluzzi & friends,1928
Season: Dry and warm
Page Views: 312
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Dec 3, 2013

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This is a very popular and heavily travelled route. The lower 4 pitches ascend gray rock diagonally right and then follow an obvious ramp system trending left atop a buttress. A lead and a half traverses up and right is then necessary to avoid roofs, while the final 4 leads leading up to the Gamsband are more difficult at UIAA Gr. IV+ (5.6-5.7).


The route is accessed from the Ciavazes parking area located between the Sellajoch and Pian-Schiavaneis Hut. The South face of Piz Ciavazes is split in the center by a steep gully system. The start of the route is on lower angle rock (comparatively speaking) to the right of the base of this gully. The start (Einsteig) is "marked." Descend by traversing along the "Gamsband" path towards Sellajoch, as previously described for the Rossi-Tomasi route.


All belays have bolt anchors. Protection is adequate by fixed pitons. Bring runners and carabiners in addition to a normal Alpine rack.

Comments on Kleine Micheluzzi/"Little Micheluzzi." Add Comment
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By Rodger Raubach
Dec 3, 2013

This route lies to the right of the Big Micheluzzi, Schubert, and the central gully system. The Rampenfuehre, the easiest of lower face routes , lies just to the right from this climb.
By Rodger Raubach
Dec 3, 2013

I was screwed out of doing this route this past year by a combination of injured knee and early snow in September. My information was abstracted from the German language guidebook, personal contact with it's author Mauro Bernardi, and other local climbers.
By Rodger Raubach
Dec 3, 2013

This climb is also listed in Classic Dolomite Climbs, Anette Koehler and Norbert Memmel, Baton-Wicks, 1999. It's their Route # 11.

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