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Kleimola Reservation

Kleimola Reservation Rock Climbing 


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Location: 42.67533, -70.64844 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 103
Administrators: Old Timer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: MattH on Jun 21, 2016
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BETA PHOTO: The wall.

Description 

This is an Essex Greenbelt property with several quarries on the premises. One hosts a ~20-25' high, continuously overhung wall over a very deep pool of water, making it perfect for DWS. As of 6/2016, most of the wall is in need of substantial cleaning but a few lines have been partly cleaned and two lines have seen ascents, both in the 11-12 range.

There's a legal parking spot in front, and a 30 second walk gets you to the goods. As long as nobody pisses off the neighbors, this will probably end up the best DWS spot near Boston. Swimming in the quarries is currently allowed, according to the website.

Getting There 

Walk 30 seconds down the trail from the lot. The main quarry is on the right, with others to the left (minimal potential). The top of the cliff is accessible via scrambling through talus. The waterfront is accessible via a side trail a little further down.

Climbing Season

For the Cape Ann area.

Weather station 3.1 miles from here


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By MattH
Jun 26, 2016
The two lines that have been climbed both end at the lichen-y streak 2/3 of the way to the left (about 15' right of the obvious inset pyramid). One follows a right-angling overlap, and one goes straight up through flat edges. Both have been cleaned significantly, but both could use some additional work on their lower sections (where it becomes difficult to reach the rock via rappel).