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Klaus Von Bulow and the Algorithm of Love  

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 32'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
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Submitted By: wayne wallace on May 26, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Crux is right off the second set of chains above Jap Gardens

Location 

I get there by doing Princely, Dr. Sniff then traversing ledges for 30m to the end of the ledges. From there one can see the 2 roofs that you split on KVBulow. You can also make it a finish pitch to full Jap Gardens.

Protection 

micro cams to #1 camalot. Bolts at top


Comments on Klaus Von Bulow and the Algorithm of Love Add Comment
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By blakeherrington
May 26, 2015

Easier approach is to climb to the base of Slow Children and walk 5m left.
The real Claus Von Bulow is spelled with a C, and has quite a story behind his infamy.
By Jon Todorovich
Jun 18, 2016

Another pitch that deserves more traffic.. As Blake mentioned, the route starts at the exact height as the start of Slow Children. Walk 5m to the left of Slow (very safe, but stay roped in - there is a small ledge to walk across. A big tree is even growing on this ledge - walk behind it and you have a bomber piece of pro in case you were to fall). There is a 2 bolt anchor at the base of the route.
The crux is no doubt immediately off the chains. The first few moves are committing because you can't place any pro until a few feet higher. Once through this crux, its a really fun finger crack to thin hands crack to a roof. Klaus goes through the center of the roof. Trapped by a Hamster goes to the right in an amazing, tricky bottomless corner. The gear is very good for Klaus. But if you decide to do the Hamster variation, make sure you have several small nuts and be ready to climb above tiny trinkets.

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