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Kitty From Hell 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Herb Laeger, Eric Rhicard. 1989
Season: Aug, Sep, Oct
Page Views: 1,546
Submitted By: limpingcrab on Nov 14, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: This is from just past the beginning of the route....

Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>


If you happen to be looking for an excellent, exposed and interesting crack climb at chimney rocks, look no further! Everything from fingers to OW with a funny cliffhanger finish, but beware, it's hard for 10d.

P1: Head up to the crack in the block, then climb from fingers to hands to off-width until you reach a ledge with a single bolt that can be backed up with small nuts (10c).

P2: Climb above the bolt and traverse left around the corner until you're at a finger crack. This part is super exposed, don't look down! Follow the finger crack up and eventually exit right into an alcove with large crystals (10d+).

P3: Climb up out of the crystal chimney into an OW. The OW turns into a great hand crack for a while and eventually you head right around the corner until you reach a decent belay ledge (10b)

P4: Follow the obvious crack system up and right to a corner where you follow the corner up, over a chockstone (use cliffhanger hang for bonus poins), and belay once you can see over the other side (5.9).


Go down the loose gully between chimney spire and chimney rock until you see a very obvious clean crack in a block low on the spire.


Doubles to #4, and I think we had a #5 along (#5 not necessary, see comment). Set of nuts.

Photos of Kitty From Hell Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Something like that.  I hope Dave Hickey will forg...
BETA PHOTO: Something like that. I hope Dave Hickey will forg...

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By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 14, 2013

Herb Laeger and I did this eons ago along with a number of other routes in the area. Love that place.

Eric Rhicard. Note spelling.
By Chris I
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 16, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This route is outstanding. Sustained and varied climbing, good pro (until some sections of P4), and total solitude. The rack recommendation here is spot on, minus the 5. My buddy and I had 1 BD 4 and a BD 5 and found out the hard way that we needed 2 4's and no 5. Pitch 3 is about 40-50 of #3 and #4 sized crack, so make sure you have a couple of each. Despite a little lichen here and there, the quality of this route was surprising. The descent is via two bolted rappels (maybe three with a 60m, we had a 70m), the first one starting right next to the summit registry and the last one from a ledge on the back side of the formation.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Oct 14, 2015

These are my notes almost verbatim on this route. Herb and I did this in 1987. I lead pitches 1,2 and 4. Herb lead #3.
1) Start in a left facing corner and follow the crack that splits the overhanging block 10c/d. Belay on ledge.
2) Climb up 10 ft. to bulge then head left around corner and up crack 10d to the quartz dike. Belay in the right crack.c
3) Head up to the wide crack which can be avoided by climbing around it at 10c. It becomes a fist then a fantastic hand crack. Follow this until you can step right on ledges and belay at bottom of lower angle cracks that head up and right.
4)The fourth pitch follows the cracks a long way to the top. Breaking this pitch up might reduce rope drag.

A note on the 3rd pitch: the rock is a little funky and pro a bit sparse getting around the offwidth. It is however a pretty exciting climb and well worth doing for the experienced climber.
By Herb Laeger
Aug 21, 2016

Leversee was not on the first ascent. I have added several more routes to this formation (more difficult) on the opposite side. Will have to check my notes and update the routes there.
By limpingcrab
From: Visalia, CA
Aug 22, 2016

Who was with you, Herb?
By Herb Laeger
Aug 22, 2016

I'm pretty sure it was Eric Rhicard.

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