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Kitties Dihedral S 
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Kitties Dihedral 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mark Trainor
Page Views: 30
Submitted By: arjunmh on Mar 6, 2017

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You can see the 1st two bolts if you zoom and the ...

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Description 

Marty's book notes: "Nice face with turns into a dihedral." Not sure what Mark was thinking as it makes much more sense to climb this as a crack climb the whole way, protecting with either gear or the bolts that are a foot or so to the right of the crack the whole way up. Or, you could completely avoid crack climbing, clip the bolts and climb the face the whole way, stemming into the dihedral. So, I guess you can call this two climbs in one -- do it both ways and see what you prefer!

Location 

Towards the right side of Lion's Den. Marked by a random couple of old bolts going up a face to the right of a beautiful crack.

Protection 

Seven bolts to a 2 shut belay, but the whole thing is easily done on gear with as many pieces as you feel like using (see photo of start). Note that the 2 shut belay is not placed to support rapping off the route. We walked south on top to rap from the top of "Sublime Line". I will place a nice rap and belay anchor when I return to develop here.


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Rock Climbing Photo: AMH on the crack start. Note the bolts off to the ...
AMH on the crack start. Note the bolts off to the ...

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