Kisses Don't Lie
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The hardest, and best, of the Icebox slab climbs, Kisses Don't Lie is an amazing route. This style of climbing will perhaps never be popular, but for those who are into it, or want to challenge themselves, this is a beauty.
P1 (140', 5.12a/b PG13): Climb up the slab passing four bolts with black hangers. The wall steepens and the route follows a vague rib feature of barely usable holds. There is a 15' stretch of climbing where you're just barely on - it feels hard as nails until you let go of your gravitational inhibitions and transcend. Then a rest and then higher another crux (11+) and a run to the anchor, but the whole pitch has multiple 5.10+/5.11- slab sections. 11 bolts which, despite their reputation, I believe are very well-placed for the lead (though the crux bolt is indeed difficult to clip without the draw in place).
P2 (110', 5.11b PG13): Step right from the belay and pull over a roof. Climb an exposed corner passing bolts and gear placements to a great stance on a hollow pillar. Ignore a bolt way up and left, and instead load up the face with gear, step down and move right with commitment. Continue upwards via laser-cut edges and then into a welcomed stemming section up two opposing flakes. Above these, pull the intimidating roof (key #2 Camalot) that caps the pitch and guards the chains. This pitch, though easier, is spectacular and definitely not to be missed.
Single run of cams to #2 Camalot, wires, and at least 11 draws/slings. An 80m rope will just barely reach (be careful!) on the first pitch, but otherwise 2 ropes are mandatory.
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Apr 17, 2017
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
One of the best pitches I have done at Red Rock or elsewhere. Incredible slab climbing and just enough to keep you on!
Bolts 7, 8, and 10, at both cruxes, are hard and scary to clip. I led with two long slings on bolts 8 and 10. All the other bolts seem well placed.
By Cha Tate
From: Saint George, UT
Apr 21, 2017
An awesome route. The midway anchor for Earth Juice allows rapping this route with one 60m rope.