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Kinsman Notch

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L to R R to L Alpha
Beast, The 
Hanging by a Moment T 
Leprechaun's Lement 
Pot o Mold T 
Pot o' Gold 

Kinsman Notch Rock Climbing 

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Location: 44.02923, -71.76618 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 11,945
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: BrianWinslow on Mar 5, 2008  with updates from Kurtz
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In the crux section near the top Photo: Alan Spa...


Kinsman Notch is perched high above rt. 112 just outside of North Woodstock. On the weekends the area is usually very crowded for a few good reasons

-There are a great variety of climbs (from WI2-WI4+ and even some mixed climbing) in close proximity to one another.
-The ice generally comes in fat with a few exceptions.
-Most of the climbs are easy to top rope from trees above (bring some long runners.)
-The heavily wooded area generally keeps the sun off of the ice and the wind out of the crag.
-North Woodstock has some interesting dining (check out the $1 egg sandwiches at the gas station) and is a classic old New Hampshire country town.

The crag has two distinct sections around the main flows. On the right the Pot o' Gold and Leprechaun's Lement area have numerous climbs and variations, and about 400 yards further left lies The Beast area. The trail from the nondescript parking lot will take you up (very steeply) to the right hand side of the crag, at the base of Pot o' Gold. Follow the cliff line to the left to reach the base of the other climbs.

Getting There 

Go west from exit 32 off of I-93 into North Woodstock, at a blinking light (Rt 3) take a slight left (basically go straight ahead) to stay on Rt 112, continue on this road. Stay on Rt 112 where Rt 118 breaches off left. Go 1.7 miles beyond Rt 118 and park at a less than obvious pull-off on the left side of the road. ( 0.3 Mi. beyond the WMNF sign, and generally plowed out and full of cars on the weekend.)

The path starts from just beyond the uphill end of the usually-plowed area. Within a few feet of the start, the path goes through a stand of closely-spaced 2-3-inch diameter trees (2016). Hike up the hill towards the ice you can see from the car, aiming for the right (hopefully the trail is broken down for you. The trail is steep so bring your cardio lungs or get your but kicked. (and, depending on snow-surface conditions, consider putting on crampons at the car or at the first steep just gets steeper)

Italic text added/Edited for clarity Feb 2017, R Hall NH Admin.

Climbing Season

Weather station 5.4 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Kinsman Notch

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Kinsman Notch:
The Beast   WI4+     Ice, 2 pitches, 160'   
Pot o' Gold   WI4     Ice   
Shamrock   WI3-4     Ice   
Leprechaun's Lement   WI2-3     Ice, 1 pitch   
Hanging by a Moment   WI4 M6     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 90'   
Kilarney   WI2+     Ice   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Kinsman Notch

Featured Route For Kinsman Notch
Rock Climbing Photo: Myself climbing the main headwall. Photo by Richar...

The Beast WI4+  New Hampshire : * Ice and Mixed Climbing : Kinsman Notch
Climb the pumpy curtain to the top and belay from here. Second pitch is WI3 with two options. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

Comments on Kinsman Notch Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Mar 26, 2008
BrianWinslow wrote:
North Woodstock has some interesting dining (check out the $1 egg sandwiches at the gas station) and is a classic old New Hampshire country town.

Brian, I don't know which gas station you went to, but if the sandwiches are that good, I'll have to redefine my idea of "dining."
By BrianWinslow
From: Concord, NH
Mar 27, 2008
I couldn't remember the name for a while but I just drove through this weekend, Wayne's has $.99 egg sandwiches and coffee and it makes me laugh. On a serious note the Woodstock Inn and Brewery is great all the way around.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jul 18, 2010
Does anybody have any information on rock climbs in this area? Some of the crags look promising from the road.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Jul 19, 2010
Mark, check with cunningham and sykes, I think they are putting out a new guidebook for the area.
By keohan68
From: Landaff,NH
Sep 8, 2013
This area was described to me as "Luck of the Irish"? I went there at the end of last season. It can get crowded on the weekends for sure, but is a great place to practice skills.
By matthew ritter
From: West Campton, New Hampshire
Dec 18, 2014
Does anybody know who bolted the shallow overhanging corner to the right of Hanging by a Moment? Or what the name is?
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Dec 19, 2014
At one time. It has been there for over 10 years and I tr'd it a couple times. Maybe a little harder in a different way than HBaM. I will ask.

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